On Sunday, the final day of the festival, I was able to meet with a handful of designers in the showroom spaces set up at Villa Noailles, though to my dismay, many of them only had a few pieces from their collections as the rest were in the city center for the final runway presentation. The show featured all 10 of the this year’s designers as well as 2 of last year’s winners.
Below is a brief on all the womenswear designers, starting with the 2010 winners.
AND THE WINNER IS.. Alexandra Verschueren!
Alexandra Verschueren recently graduated from the Royal Academy of Antwerp and she lives and works in Belgium. Her womenswear collection is inspired by German artist Thomas Demand’s cardboard illustrations. Japanese origami is a strong reference point that comes to life with cut-outs and 3D folds. The unusual shapes make for an interesting study of volume and texture. Alexandra takes home the L’Oréal Professional Grand Prize for the 25th edition of the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography with €15,000. While I like the idea behind the collection, I don’t think I’m the only one who was a bit surprised by her winning the competition!
THE PUBLIC PRIZE WINNER.. Tsolmandakh Munkhuu
Paris-based Mongolian designer Tsolmandakh Munkhuu won the Public Prize. The last of this year’s designers to show on the runway, I think everyone in the audience was wowed by this collection. For starters, the models were painted black, in a way I for one have never seen body paint done before. The effect was mesmerizing and made the all-black collection even more enticing (note that the photos below don’t do it justice!). The Mongolian born designer now lives in Paris. Her clothes involve elements of Buddhist culture, such as motifs of skeletons and skulls embroidered or cut out in materials. Volumes are met with exquisite details such as pleating, applique and layering. Monks attire and the use of shapes in car air filters also serve as inspiration.
Here’s a glimpse at the other womenswear designers.
My personal FAVORITE from the first day to the last. See yesterday’s post for more on her and showroom photos.
Diptych by Ali Zedtwitz & Valerie Lange
Austrian duo Ali Zedtwitz & Valerie Lange feature exaggerated and voluminous shapes set to structured fabrics and something like re-invented kimonos. It reminded me a bit of Marni. Floral headpieces add to the cheery and fun aesthetic.
Nada van Dalen
Rotterdam based Nada van Dalen’s collection was inspired by her stay in Berlin whereby the city has tried to erase its scars and repair itself. Nada used the angular lines of her design to serve as a metaphor for our path in life in her womenswear and menswear. Scribbles on t-shirts, holes or gaps in clothing are common.
Yun Jung Kim
South Korean designer Yun Jung Kim is based in Paris. Her collection was inspired by a visit to Spain, whereby she explores religious and secular clothing. In all black, materials range from satin, felt, leather and fur set to structured and voluminous silhouettes. Anther one of my favorites.
Nora Berger & Kathrin Lugbauer
Austrian based designers Nora Berger & Kathrin Lugbauer describe their collection as the result of ideas and forms that connect like a jigsaw puzzle. An African spirit is felt with structured dresses and raffia visors.
Stay tuned for Fashion Snoops’ complete coverage on Festival Hyères, including more photos and information on all the designers and artists.