Here’s the inside scoop on what went down at the recent Denim by Premiere Vision show held in Paris for Spring 13. (For the full report and more trends, check Fashion Snoops this week!) Those familiar with the show know that it’s THE most important tradeshow for denim.. a place where denim weavers and laundries present their latest developments to the who’s who of global denim brands. I’ve been covering the show and interviewing exhibitors ever since it started 9 seasons ago and I have to say the most recent show was in ways a departure from the rest. Why’s that? One of the most important trends to take away was NON-DENIM!
The message from the over 20 exhibitors that I met with was very similar. Everyone’s tired of indigo, so let’s bring in the alternatives. Chinos and Twills, which have been present at the show for the past 2 seasons explode into full-blown assortments.
Another option comes in the form of Gabardine and Herringbone. It should be noted that in many of the non-denim options, treatments and finishes which were previously applied to denim are now used on these alternative fabrics.
Another denim alternative is chambray. Yes we’ve seen it before on shirting, but this time around chambray expands into bottom weights as well.
Another HUGE do-not-miss trend at the show was COLOR. There wasn’t one tone or shade that stood out from the rest, with the majority of exhibitors featuring a full range of brights. Color applies to both denim and non-denim, with countless ready-to-dye options. Sulfer dyes and pigment two-tone color are featured.
Double faced fabrics also answer the call to color.
Getting back to actual denim there are some new blues to be had. In fact, exhibitors typically featured a range of these blues from 70s tones to crayola blues and even pales. Looks like someone finally got the memo on the 70s trend in sportswear.
Continuing along the same lines of newness, grey denim is also popular.
Indigo doesn’t entirely disappear, with intense, saturated colors remaining.
In terms of treatment and finishings, plasticized coatings are number one. Printed denim and non-denim becomes a new option which is sure to be a winner in the youth market.
I should note that the S-T-R-E-T-C-H trend continues, with comfort stretch featured nearly everywhere. And for the jegging crowd, stretch progresses with new advancements for shape retention, i.e. no more sagging in the butt with wear. But perhaps the most interesting advancement above all is the ability to achieve knit-like wovens with new fabric technology. Isko and Bossa both featured these fabrics (along with some actual knit ones).. talk about taking comfort to the next level!