Every major runway season I like to give a personal outlook on the major theme movements for the season. Typically that means discussing very different influences in terms of importance, however for Fall 12/13, I can not help but feel that we’re on the brink of darkness in every which way. Sure there are a total of 27 themes split between contemporary and junior which you could explore on FASHIONSNOOPS.COM, but the big overarching do-not-miss message is ultimately very, very dark, expressed in 4 different themes.
APOCALYPTIC WARRIORS is perhaps the harshest message of all featured at Gareth Pugh, Ann Demeulemeester and Rick Owens. If this sounds familiar, it wasn’t too long ago – Fall 09/10 runway to be exact – that a similar reference called Road Warrior was introduced, in the midst of a recession. It seems that we’re not entirely finished with that doomsday combatant look yet, and this season the key takeaways are leather pants and armor-like construction (almost emulating breast plates) on outerwear.
DARK ROMANCE, as I mentioned before, is perhaps the most commercial vision of darkness. Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Givenchy and Giles all take on dark jewel toned color palette enhanced by luxe materials like velvet and lace. Capes and transparency are other highlights.
GLAM GOTH is the youngest (read: junior) expression of all, featured at Versace and John Richmond. The sleek look consists of a metropolitan attitude as well as more leather, religious elements and embellishment.
Finally, DARK RIDER continues to explore the darkness in a way we haven’t seen before.. equestrian. In a somewhat surprising move (and further proving the reach of the dark side), Givenchy features common jodhpurs, riding jackets and capelets destined for horseback riding by moonlight.